Whole-Home Repiping: Signs It's Time and What the Job Involves
Most homeowners do not wake up one day and decide to repipe the house. They get there slowly. A pinhole leak in the basement ceiling gets a patch. Then another one shows up a few months later. The shower pressure drops whenever someone runs the dishwasher. The water comes out tinted for a few seconds in the morning. Each problem gets its own fix, and each fix costs money.
At some point it is worth stepping back and asking whether these are separate problems or one problem showing up in different places. Very often it is the second: the supply piping in the house has reached the end of its useful life.
What "repiping" actually means
A whole-home repipe replaces the water supply lines: the pipes that carry pressurized hot and cold water from the main shut-off to every fixture, appliance and hose bib. It does not usually include the drain and vent pipes, which are a separate system, although problems there can be addressed in the same project if needed.
The new lines are usually PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) or copper. Both are widely accepted by plumbing codes across Canada and the US. PEX is flexible, which means fewer fittings and easier routing through existing walls. Copper is rigid and long-proven. Your local code, the layout of the house and your preferences all play into the choice.
Signs it's time to consider a repipe
1. You have galvanized steel supply pipes
Galvanized steel was common in houses built through roughly the middle of the last century. Over decades it corrodes from the inside, narrowing the pipe and shedding rust. If you see grey threaded pipe at the water heater or under a sink, ask a plumber to confirm what is running through the walls.
2. You have polybutylene
Polybutylene is a grey (sometimes blue or black) plastic pipe used in some homes built from the late 1970s into the mid 1990s. It has a history of failing without warning, especially at fittings. Many insurers ask about it, and some will not cover a home that still has it.
3. Repeated pinhole leaks in copper
Copper usually lasts a long time, but aggressive water chemistry, high velocity or poor original installation can cause pitting and pinhole leaks. One leak is a repair. A pattern of leaks in different spots is a sign the pipe walls are thinning throughout.
4. Low pressure at several fixtures at once
A single slow faucet is often a clogged aerator or a bad cartridge. Low pressure across the house, especially when two fixtures run together, points to restricted supply lines.
5. Discolored or metallic-tasting water
Brown, yellow or rust-tinted water, especially first thing in the morning, often comes from corroding pipe. It is worth testing the water and checking the pipes before assuming it is a city supply issue.
6. You are already opening walls
If a major renovation is planned, replacing old supply piping while walls and ceilings are open is far less disruptive than doing it later.
What the job involves, step by step
A good repipe is a planned project, not a demolition. Here is roughly how it goes.
Assessment. The plumber walks the house, identifies the existing pipe material, finds the main shut-off and the water heater, counts fixtures and figures out the best routes for new lines. Access from an unfinished basement or attic makes a big difference.
Written plan and scope. You should get a written scope listing which lines are being replaced, the pipe material, the number and approximate location of wall and ceiling openings, how long the water will be off each day, and whether patching and painting are included.
Protection. Floors, furniture and finishes are covered. Work areas are set up room by room.
Running new lines. Small openings are cut where needed to fish new lines through walls and between floors. With PEX, a manifold or trunk-and-branch layout is common. Old lines are usually abandoned in place or removed where accessible.
Connections. Each fixture, the water heater and appliances like the dishwasher, washing machine and fridge line are connected to the new supply.
Pressure testing and inspection. The new system is pressure tested before any wall is closed. Where your municipality requires a permit and inspection, it happens at this stage.
Patching. The openings are closed. Some contractors patch to a paint-ready finish, others handle paint too, and some leave patching to you. Make sure you know which before you sign.
In most homes, water can be restored at the end of each working day, so the household is not without water for the whole project.
What affects the cost of a repipe
There is no single price for a repipe, and any number you see online should be treated as a rough reference at best. The real factors are:
- Number of bathrooms and fixtures. More fixtures mean more lines and more connections.
- Number of floors and the layout. A bungalow with an open basement is much simpler than a three-storey house with finished ceilings everywhere.
- Pipe material. PEX is generally faster to install than copper.
- Access. Unfinished basements, attics and chases reduce the number of openings.
- Wall and ceiling finishes. Plaster takes more care and more repair than drywall. Tile and custom millwork may need to be worked around.
- Patching and painting scope. Included, partially included or excluded.
- Permits and code upgrades. Some jurisdictions require upgrades such as a new main shut-off, pressure-reducing valve or expansion tank as part of the work.
When comparing quotes, line these items up side by side. A lower number that leaves out patching or code items is not a like-for-like comparison.
Repipe or keep repairing?
If you have one leak in otherwise healthy copper, repair it. If you have galvanized or polybutylene, a history of leaks, falling pressure and discolored water, the math usually tips toward a planned repipe. You stop paying for emergency visits, you reduce the risk of water damage inside finished walls, and you can tell your insurer and any future buyer that the supply system is new.
Next step
You can see what our whole-home repiping service covers and read the common plumbing questions we get from homeowners. If the problem looks more like the drain side than the supply side, our guide to trenchless sewer line replacement explains how sewer jobs are scoped.
Ready to talk about your house? Send the details through our quote form: the city, the age of the home, what pipe you have (if you know), and what has been happening. We will review it and come back with next steps toward a written scope.